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Preface
Kefalonia
is a large island with many beautiful and contrasting places that
fascinate the visitor.
Under its imposing Mount Ainos with its unique pine trees, the
enchanting shores of the island stretch out with golden sandy
beaches that are unforgettable to those who visit them.
The dense road network designed at the time of the British rule allows
the traveler to know the island. The variety and interchange of the
scenery, with its lush vegetation and wild beauty impress the
visitor.
The towns and villages have come alive again following the disastrous
earthquake of 1953 that had raged everything to the ground. At its
northernmost past, the older settlements have withstood the fury of
the earthquake, therefore the past is joined with the present.
Buildings of rare architecture show the beauty of another era.
In order to discover all these strange and beautiful spots, one should
know which places to visit, where to taste the delicious Kefalonian
food, where to entertain and what to buy from the beautiful shops of
the island.
ARGOSTOLI
Of
course, you should start your trip to the beautiful island of
Kefalonia from its capital city, Argostoli. It is located in the
centre of the southern part of the island at the far end of the bay
with the same name. It was destroyed completely by the 1953
earthquake along with its old mansions and majestic bell-towers.
You enter
the city by passing over its pretty stone bridge decorated by the
Colona, a small pyramid, a monument dedicated to Charles de Bosset,
who built the bridge. You see a modern city mirrored in the quiet
water of its natural harbour with new buildings, such as the
Administration Building, the Archaeological Museum, the Public
Library, the Court House, the Municipal Theater etc.
One of
the largest provincial stadia is the Stadium of Argostoli, <<Andreas
Vergotis>>, a present from Roccos Vergotis, located at the edge of
Koutavos Lagoon. You continue your way along the coastal road, where
you can see the market place of fruit stores and fish shops. Don’t
miss the chance to take a walk along the marvelous seashore sidewalk
with its palm trees and paved with sea pebbles.
You can
see the sail-boat of summer visitors moored in a row. Turning left,
you arrive at the main square where you can see the fine
patisseries, restaurant and hotels. Here, in the evening, you can
enjoy your cake or ice-cream and if you are lucky, you can hear the
sweet musical notes of the Argostoli Band. Don’t forget to walk
along the Lithostroto (Cobbled Road), the main street of the city.
Here, you can do your shopping at different stores. You can see the
church of Saint Spyridon, and the clock tower of Campana Square,
where the Kefalonians buried the Libro d’ Oro in 1797, upon the
arrival of the French republicans.
You can
visit the Argostoli Archaeological Museum and admire the
archaeological finds of the Mycenean period, ancient gold coins,
copper swords, sculptures and ceramic.
Something
that will be unforgettable to you is the Folklore Museum, located on
the ground floor of the Corgialenian Library. Here, you will be
transported to another age, vanished with the passage of time. You
can admire the superb lace, the linen with family monogram, the
living room with the dance gowns, personal things, furniture, silver
sets, the Kefalonian bedroom, agricultural implements etc.
Then, you
can go up to the imposing Library consisting of 50,000 books and you
may ask to see the Icon collection of P. Harocopos, and the wood
carved icon screen of Sarin.
A little
further on from the Library you come to the <<Kefalos>> Theatre,
built at the site of the old theatre before the earthquake. It is an
excellent building, and one of the best theatres in Greece.
Following
the large palm tree lined street, you reach the building of the
Argostoli Music Band School, and little further down you can see one
of the very few mansions that survived the great 1953 earthquake. It
is the home of Mr. Marinos Cosmetatos that preserves even today, the
furniture and decoration of an authentic mansion.
Continuing your way, a distance of about one kilometer from Argostoli,
you come to Katavothres (Swallow Holes), an inexplicable geological
phenomenon. The sea water seeps into the ground and vanishes.
Scientists have discovered, by throwing paint into the water, that
it ends up in Melissani Lake at Karavomylos, about two kilometers
from Sami.
You can
swim at Fanari, the beautiful shallow beach that starts from
Katavothres and ends at the picturesque Lighthouse of Saint
Theodore. Fanari is one of the five works built by the British
Governor Napier. It is a small round building flanked by white
Dorian style columns. Here, you can enjoy one of the most enchanting
sunsets.
Going a
little further up and left, you find the Monument of the Italians,
dedicated to the memory of the Acqui Division, whose soldiers and
officers were executed by the Germans on the island (about 7,000
Italians). The panoramic view you can see makes you forget that sad
event.
The tour
of Lassi leads you now to the shores of the area. First you meet
Kalamia, Gradakia, and Paliostafida, to end up at the marvelous
beach of Makrys-Yalos, with its golden sand and very clean water,
one of the finest on the island. A rock separates it from the
organized beach of Platy-Yalos with tents, showers, a restaurant
etc. this beach has the distinction of winning the <<Blue Flag>>
from the European Union. For those who prefer a tranquil environment
there is the beach of Tourkopodaro across from there.
LEIVATHO,
SCALA, POROS
Continuing your traveling to the Southern part of Kefalonia, you enter
the Leivatho region beginning at the village of Minies. The airport
is located here and it can accommodate international flights. Then
you pass through the village of Svoronata, where there are the
beaches of Ammes and Ai Heli. At Domata, you can stop at the Church
of Panagia (Our Lady), with its marvelous gold-plated icon screen
and the temporary coffin of the Patriarch of Constantinople, Gregory
the 5th. At the lower part of the village of Kalligata
there is the beautiful beach of Avythos. Nearby is the isle of Dias,
with a chapel dedicated to the Panagia of Vlahernon (Our Lady of
Vlahernon).
Then you
arrive at Kourkoumelata, an exquisite modern village with many
villas, garden with very beautiful flowers along the planned street,
a stadium, and Cultural Centre. It was built according to Swiss
building standards by the benefactor G. Vergotis.
Lord
Byron stayed in Metaxata for a short time before he went to
Mesologhi. He used to enjoy the view a little further up the rock at
the site of Kallithea (Fine View) of the village of Lakythra.
Lakythra is the capital of Leivatho, a big village with nice houses,
squares and broad streets.
An
exquisite museum is housed in Saint Andrew’s Monastery of Milapidia,
with Byzantine icons in it. Saint Andrew’s right sole is kept here.
To the right of the Monastery are located the villages of Keramies,
Pessada and Spartia. In Keramies, the mansions of the Vallianos
family stand out. As a gift from the Vallianos family there is the
high school of the village which consists of very fine complex
buildings.
From
Pessada, you can easily go to Zakynthos (Zante) by taking the
ferry-boat ay the port. At Mazarakata, Mycenian graves have been
discovered by the Greek archaeologist Mr. P. Kavadias and the Dutch
archaeologist Mr. Gekop. These findings are kept at the
Archaeological Museum of Argostoli.
The
fortress of Saint George rises above the village of Peratata in an
imposing way. It was the first capital of the island until 1757. It
covers an area of 16,000 square metres and a perimeter of 600
metres. Its shape is polygonic and it consists of three parts: the
outer wall, the inner enclosure and the rocky top at the centre of
the enclosure. There are ramparts, embrasures and watch-towers.
There are many buildings inside the fortresses, such as storehouses,
quarters, a hospital and prisons. There were also splendid churches,
such as the churches of Saint Nikolas, Saint George and four
catholic churches. A tunnel started from the ramparts and ended up
at the Koutavos lagoon in Argostoli, serving as an emergency exit.
It is really worth visiting.
Crossing
the villages of Peratata, Poriarata, Mousata and Vlachata, you come
down to Lourdata and you arrive at the marvelous beach of Lourdas.
It is a sandy beach with many small eating houses and many visitors,
ideal for sea sports. Going up again to the main road, you reach the
villages of Simotata, Platies and, at the crossing you turn right
and pass through the villages of Hionata, Valeriano, Thiramona,
Mavrata and you end up at Katelios. Here, you can find fresh fish
and local wine.
The
continuing beaches offer a quiet swim. At the beach of Ratzakli you
can find the Carretta-Carretta turtles which lay their eggs in the
sand.
The next
village you come to is Scala. Here is a vast sandy beach with small
pebbles and tall pine trees. It has colorful small eating houses,
bars, modern hotels and many shops. The villa of a well-to-do Roman,
with warm water baths was discovered here in 1957. There are mosaic
representations and inscriptions of the 3rd century A.D.
Get back
to the main road and stop at the village of Markopoulo. Here is the
church of Our Lady. On August 15, you will be amazed to see small
snakes with the black sign of the cross on their heads which appear
on Our Lady’s feast day and fill the yard, the bell tower and Our
Lady’s icon. The worshippers are photographed together with the
little snakes, considered as sacred. After the feast day is over,
the little snakes disappear and return again the next year.
Continuing your way to Poros, you arrive at the village of Kremmydi
(Onion), Pastra, Saint George, Saint Irene, Tzannata, and you end up
at the very green straits of Poros. Here the landscape is lush and
reminds one of the Valley of Tempi in central Greece. Poros is one
of the main seaports on the island, a beautiful town that combines
both mountains and sea. It has a great tourist attraction with many
hotels, restaurants, bars, cafeterias and fish taverns. Its modern
square is next to the beach and it has athletic facilities for
volleyball, tennis, basketball etc. A Mycenean grave has been
discovered in recent years with many funeral gifts in it, by the
archaeologist Lazarus Kolonas.
During
the summer you can attend various interesting cultural activities
taking place at the Poros Community Hall. At an elevation of 800
metres, near Tzanata, is the Atro Monastery. Here, you can enjoy
marvellous view and the sunrise. You are now in the Pyrgi area, in
the central part of the island’s area. In the village of Saint
Nicolas, you should stop to see the Lake of Avythos or Akoli. On
your way, you will also pass the mountainous villages of Kapandriti,
Xenopoulo, Andriolata and Kambitsata.
As far as
here, you have passed through the entire southeast area of Kefalonia
and now take the road of return to Argostoli.
AINOS,
SAMI, AGHIA EFIMIA
Now it is
your turn to visit the Saint Gerasimos Monastery, located on the
Omala Plateau. You leave Argostoli by crossing the bridge. You go
uphill to the right and arrive at the village of Razata. Here, to
the right is a dirt road leading to some Cyclopean Walls. You can
look closely and continue your way along the uphill road to Saint
Gerasimos. At this point, the view is fascinating as Argostoli and
Lixouri stretch out behind you.
Before
you arrive at Omala, you pass through very green vineyards with the
Kefalonian grapes <<Rombola>> from which the famous wine of the
island is made. You come to the village of Frangata and Valsamata,
you pass through the Plain of forty wells, and you arrive at Saint
Gerasimos Monastery. Was built in the 16th century. The
monk Gerasimos Notaras, from Trikala, in the province of Corinth,
lived and led an ascetic life here, until his death. He is the
miracle making patron saint of our island. Thousands of visitors
venerate the relics of Saint Gerasimos. These relics are in the new
church that was built after the 1953 earthquake. His feast day is
celebrated on August 16 and October 20, and then, a big procession
takes place.
Now, go
up again to the main road and continue your way to Sami. The
continuing uphill turns on the road will take you first to the
highest mountain of Kefalonia, Ainos or Monte Nero, as the Venetians
used to call it. Advancing toward the top, you pass through very
green forests consisting of Kefalonia fir-trees. It is a unique
species of fir-trees in the world. From here the view is something
special. The whole island stretches out at your feet and far away,
on the horizon, you can make out the mountains of Ithaca and the
Peloponese. It is worth seeing the sunrise. Back on the main road
and you go downhill towards the colorful seaport of Sami. You should
stop at the Cave of Drongarati, by turning left, in order to marvel
at the stalactites and stalagmites, formed drop by drop many years
ago.
You
arrive at Sami, one of the bigger ports on the island where there is
a daily ferry-boat service to Patra, Ithaca, Italy etc. Restaurants,
bars, cafeterias and fish taverns with delicious food stretch along
its wonderful seaside road. It is worth visiting the marvelous beach
of Antisami, with its very green and spotlessly clean water. Those
who choose to take their holidays in a trailer (caravan) can stay at
the organized camping site of Mr. Valetas, located at the beach of
Sami, next to the sea.
Near Sami
is the village of Karavomylos. Here you can go boating on the
enchanting Melissani Lake, with its beautiful colored water that
turns blue at noon time. The water from katavothres (Swallow Holes)
of Argostoli ends up at this point. Continue your way to the
colorful seaside village of Aghia Efimia. Along the way you pass
very beautiful little bays with white pebbles in them. You can take
advantage of the opportunity to swim at some of them. Sail-boats
from all over the world anchor at Aghia Efimia. In its fine taverns
you can find the delicious Kefalonian specialties which you can
enjoy, and at the same time look at the sea and Ithaca in the
distance.
You are
now in the area of Pylaros and come to the villages of Drakopoulata
and Makriotika. At the village of Potamianata, is the statue of
Marinos Antypas who lost his life in Kileler, Thessaly.
ASSOS,
FISCARDO
When you
get the main crossing, you can return to Argostoli by turning left.
If you are not tired, you can continue your way to the right towards
the very green area of Erisos. To your left, beneath the village of
Divarata the unique beach of Myrtos stretches out. Its crystal clear
water changes color all the time.
A little
further down is the Venetian fortress of Assos, next to the small
colorful village with big plane-trees. Go downhill to enjoy this
rare grandeur closely, a real creation of both nature and man.
The
fortress was a fortification of the Venetian army and was built by
the Venetian Governor of Crete, John Montenigo and the engineer
Marino di Gentilini d’ Este. It had a great strategic value together
with the port of Assos, where the Venetian galleys used to moor.
Go up to
the main road again, and continue your way to the north part of the
island, in the area of Erisos. Here, you can see a prevalence of
lush and plentiful vegetation consisting of cypress trees, olive
trees and arbutus bushes. Marvelous village that retain the beauty
of another era crop up among them, because this area was not
destroyed by the great earthquake of 1953.
Starting
from Ano (upper) Erisos, you arrive at the villages of Patrikata,
Karya, Komitata, Niohori, Vary, Playa and Mesovounia. In Vary, you
can see the excellent church of Our Lady with its significant
frescoes.
Go down
to Kato (lower) Erisos and after you pass through the villages of
Konidarata, Mangano and Antypata that stand out with their old
houses, you get to Fiscardo.
Here, you
think time stood still many years ago before the great earthquake
when all of Kefalonia was built with traditional homes. Fine
mansions with red tiles on their roofs and small iron balconies show
the beauty of that period.
Picturesque taverns by the seaside offer you fresh fish. At the same
time see the island of Ithaca across the sea.
History
tells us that the village of Fiscardo got its name from the pirate
Roberto Guiscardo, who managed to moor at the port of Fiscardo in
1185 and conquered Kefalonia. He stayed there until his death. The
port was greatly developed during the Venetian period. It was then
that the first mansions still surviving were built. Many sail-boats
from all over the world moor here so that the visitors would see the
picturesque village. There is also a good ferry-boat service to
Ithaca, Astakos and Lefkada.
As you
take the road of return to Argostoli you come to the village of
Angona, with its beautiful beach of Aghia Kyriaki. At the crossing,
to the right, the road takes you to the Lixouri area, but if you do
not want to go by road there is the alternative of the seaway. You
can take the ferry-boat from Argostoli. There are regular services
every half hour and you can get there in 25 minutes. Lixouri is the
second largest town of the island after Argostoli, with about 4,000
inhabitants. It is a picturesque town that was rebuilt after the1953
earthquake.
In
Lixouri, you can see the Vallianos Vocational School that used to be
famous throughout Greece. There is the Music School and the
Iakovation Library, housed of in the mansion of the Typaldos and
Iakovatos families.
You can
sit in its main square and taste some exquisite traditional
Kefalonian cakes and walk on its picturesque seaside promenade. Here
you can see the statue of Andreas Laskaratos, the great satirical
poet and prose writer who was one of the greatest celebrities that
our island has produced. In Lixouri you can find modern tourist
facilities that can offer you an unforgettable vacation. There are
plenty of shops, restaurants, eating places and night clubs. For
swimming, you can choose the beautiful beaches with red sand located
between Lepeda, Xi and Kounopetra (Moving Stone).
At this
point you’ll find the famous Kounopetra (Moving Stone), a strange
phenomenon on the island, but that stone has stopped moving since
the 1953 earthquake. Look for the road to the left after Kipouria to
Plateia Ammos. Not for the faint hearted. The steps are many and
steep, but the visit down to the beach is worth the effort-“The new
Myrtos”!
It is
worth visiting the Monastery of Kipouria. The view towards the open
sea is fantastic.
A little
further away you will find the fine beach of Petani. On the way you
pass the villages of Havriata, Havdate, Favata, Monopolata,
Kaminarata, Rifi, Damoulianata, Aghia Thekli and Kondoyenada.
ITHACA
It would
be a pity to leave the island of Kefalonia without visiting our
famous Ithaca. It is separated from Kefalonia by a channel 3-4
kilometers wide.
As we all
know from Homer, this is the island of the crafty Ulysses. Its name
originated from Ithacos, son of Poseidon, god of the sea.
You can
reach the island from the ports of Sami, Aghia Efimia or Fiscardo.
As you enter the port at the capital of the island Vathi, you are
greeted by the pretty island of Lazareto with the little church of
the saviour on it.
Vathi is
a quiet little seaside town that lacks nothing. It can offer many
things to visitors who will be impressed by its taverns, tourist
shops, bars, hotels etc.
Beautiful
little harbours await you to swim in their serene waters. Villages
you can visit are: Perahori, Pisa Aetos and Stavros, Frikes and
Kioni are especially worth looking at.
CULTURAL
ACTIVITIES AND PUBLIC FEASTS
During
the summer, many cultural activities and public feasts take place in
different villages of the island.
In
Argostoli, you can attend performances of the Kefalonian Amateur
Theatre, which are quite remarkable. Also singnificant is the Music
Choral Festival taking place at the end of August. Choirs from all
parts of Greece and Europe present a unique spectacle.
An
important part is also played by our public feasts which will
entertain you with our Kefalonian cheerfulness and our local dances.
First, we begin with Saint Elias public feast on July 20th
in Razata. Then, follows the public feast of Saint Ann in Lakythra on
July 25th, of Saint Paraskevi on July 26th in
Xerizomeno, and of Saint Pandeleimon on July 27th in
Kondogourata.
On august
11th, we have the public feast of Saint Spyridon in an
eave-like little church in Kourouklata. Then follows the great
public feast of Our Lady on August 15th with the strange
little snakes in Markopoulo and of Saint Gerasimos on August 16th.
On August
19th and 20th, you can have fun and get drunk
on the excellent win <<Rombola>>, at the Wine festival which takes
place in Frangata. Then, follows the public feast of Our Lady of
Lamia on September 8th in Dilinata. On the same day is
the public feast of Our Lady of Platytera in the colorful Monastery
of Paliohersos in Erisos. And we finish with the public feast of
Saint Gerasimos on 20th of October.
We
hope you have plenty of fun and enjoy Our beautiful island ! |